This past weekend our friends Jeff and Simone treated us to a whitewater rafting trip on the Deschutes River. What a trip! Definitely going down as one of the highlights of this #vanlife adventure.

I met Jeff and Simone a couple years ago at Burning Man. They welcomed me into their theme camp, never having met me before, with open arms and introduced me to a crew of people I now count among my nearest and dearest. I was stoked to spend a weekend with them on their home turf, doing what they love — riding the river.

We left their house just outside of Bend early Friday morning and launched from Mecca Flat. From Mecca Flat, we floated at a leisurely pace down the river to a campground called Whiskey Dick. From what I gather, it’s a primitive campground managed by the BLM. There are no fees (besides permits for the river), but it is first-come first-serve and sites are limited.

We spent our second and final night at a campground called Buckskin Mary, where we scored a pretty slick camp spot with loads of shade right on the river. After another short float — and wicked waterfight with a passing raft — we got out at Maupin City Park.

Overall, it was a pretty spectacular weekend. We couldn’t have asked for better hosts. And I came away with all sorts of new ideas.

 

From Crater Lake, we headed North toward the Deschutes National Forest. We were hoping to escape the national park crowd over the weekend and find a quiet place to camp before meeting up with friends in Bend. The Deschutes National Forest was a welcome reprieve, although it was still a pretty hoppin’ spot on the weekend!

Where I Camped:

Crane Prairie Reservoir
GPS: 43.756786,-121.822596
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Most of the websites and apps I use to find dispersed camping didn’t list many options in Southern Oregon, so we were pretty much on our own!

I scoped out a few lakes and reservoirs in the Deschutes National Forest, and off we went in search of a site. After a couple dead-ends and one trip to a dried up reservoir, we finally found a small forest road that took us straight to the Crane Prairie Reservoir.

Jackpot! There are several large, shaded spaces with fire circles right on the bank of the reservoir. We stayed in two different spots over the weekend; both were large, private, shaded and had personal swimming holes! Dispersed camping at its best. 🙂

 

Where I Hiked:

 

South Sister
Distance: 11.2 miles
Time: 6-7 hours
Elevation gain: 4940 ft

This was a BEAST of a hike. Nearly 1000ft of elevation gain each mile, and a good portion of the hike is exposed. Then there’s the final two miles… you’re basically climbing up a steep slope of loose, crumbly volcanic rock with no protection from the sun and hardly a trail to follow.

I gotta admit, this wasn’t my favorite hike. The views are nice, but it’s pretty heavily trafficked and a whole lot of work for what you get out of it in the end.

We did get adopted by lovely pup named Lucy at the summit. That kinda made it all worth it. 🙂

Where I Camped:

Mill Creek
GPS: 42.846348, -122.467407
Elevation: 3007′
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We arrived quite late, so we broke down and camped at a paid site. It was only ten bucks, but it paled in comparison to the many beautiful, private, free sites we’ve found on public land. Luckily it was a Wednesday evening, so there were only a few other campers around. The spaces were fairly spread out, but on a busy night you’d definitely see and hear your neighbors.

Abbot Creek
GPS: 42.855781, -122.506240
Elevation: Unknown’
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We lucked out with this one! After nearly an hour and a half of driving down unmarked roads, we managed to find an old forest road along a creek and nab this little spot by the water. We passed at least four spaces on the water and maybe ten on the bank. Great place for dispersed camping near Crater Lake!

Where I Worked:

Prospect Library
150 Mill Creek Drive
Prospect, OR 97536

I LOVE PUBLIC LIBRARIES! Despite the fact this library was closed the day we needed to work there, we got a full day of work in on the back porch. The staff at the library have set up tables with outlets so that patrons can use the library services even when local tax money can’t keep the doors open. Yay librarians.

We spent the whole day doing calls and banging out emails from the shady porch, and we  even set up our stove to make breakfast.  Why not? 🙂

 

Where I Hiked:

Garfield Peak
Distance: 3.4 miles
Time: ~1.4 hours
Elevation gain: 1069 ft

We did this hike the first afternoon we arrived. It was a great way to work up a sweat and see the lake for the first time. You’ll gain a fair amount of elevation over a short distance, but for a quick hike you get some stellar views.

Mount Scott
Distance: 4.2 miles
Time: ~2 hours
Elevation gain: 1259 ft

This was a fun, rewarding hike to the highest point in Crater Lake. It features expansive views of the lake and terminates at a fire lookout up top. Unfortunately it was a little smoky the day we did it, but still a beautiful hike!

 

 

 

This place blew my mind. Maybe it was because we drove several hours through dry, desolate valleys and entered the park from the back. Maybe because as we entered the park, all I could think was: “Where are the big trees? I thought there would be big trees?” Maybe because the contrast between the world outside, and the world within this grove of giants was so stark.

I’ve lived in California for seven years, and I had no idea this wonderland of fifteen hundred year old giants existed. I thought I’d seen all I needed to see of redwood and sequoia trees in Central California, closer to Yosemite. This was something else entirely. I can’t recommend a visit highly enough.

Where I Camped:

Horse Linto at Willow Creek
GPS: 41.005735, -123.606518
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We spent our first night here on the way to the Redwoods. It’s a lovely spot, but it’s not particularly convenient for park access – just under two hours from the Prairie Creek Visitor’s Center. There are five spots in total; three next to the restroom, and two on either side of the creek. We got lucky and grabbed a creekside spot. The ones near the restroom were a bit too close together for my taste. I recommend showing up early or only camping at this spot on weekdays.

Rattlesnake Lake
GPS: 41.701617, -123.950202
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Well this was a random find! The rangers at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center recommended we try the Smith River Recreation Area for dispersed camping, but when we arrived at Sand Camp we found basically a parking lot of campsites. Not what we had in mind! We kept on driving and decided to turn down a random dirt road toward Rattlesnake Lake. After several miles of driving up a rough dirt road, we pulled up to this incredible view! Not a bad spot to call home for the night.

Twin Creeks
GPS: 42.019260, -124.105239
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This is one of those gems of a campsites that meets my perfect trifecta: running water, privacy, and gorgeous views. We stumbled onto this spot on our way out of the Redwoods, and I only wish we’d found it sooner! It sits right at the meeting of two creeks, and there’s a perfect swimming hole right beside the fire pit.

We went for a run up the road in the morning and swim before we left. It doesn’t get much better than that!

Where I Worked:

The Bell and Whistle Coffee House
16340 Lower Harbor Rd
Brookings, OR 97415

The Bell and Whistle is a sweet little coffee shop right on the Oregon Coast! Speedy wifi, plenty of tables, and lots of outlets. We spent all day here.

Where I Hiked:

Big Tree Cathedral Loop and Fern Canyon Loop
Distance: 4 miles
Time: 2-4 hours
Elevation gain: 200-300 ft

When we walked from the Visitor’s Center to the start of this trail, it felt like we passed through a veil and into an ancient, magical world to which humans don’t belong. Towering trees, verdant ferns, moss covered stumps, bubbling brooks. Some of these trees predated the Roman Empire by over 500 years. And that sentiment is palpable. We planned to do three hikes this day but ended up spending hours just on this one. At one point we just parked in a little nook near the start of the trail and listened to people gasp in awe as they walked through. It’s easy and short, but worth taking your time on.

James Irvine and Miners Ridge Loop
Distance: 12.4 miles
Time: 5 hours
Elevation gain: 1545 ft

This is a beautiful, extended loop that starts and ends at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center and allows you to cover a wide swath across the park. It winds through huge groves of redwoods, rivers and streams, and even includes a couple miles along the coast. Not too much elevation gain and a great way to see all the park has to offer.

It’s been called “the west’s most beautiful, least visited national park.” Located just over four hours northeast of San Francisco, Lassen Volcanic National Park is a 166-square-mile wonderland full of smoldering mud pots, steaming sulfur vents, and dormant volcanoes. Unlike Yosemite and the other parks further South, there were no crowds at the entrance gates and we seldom passed another hiker on the trails. 

Where I Camped:

Butte Creek
GPS: 40.615054, -121.297687
Elevation: 5554′
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What a find! This spot had everything I look for in a campsite: privacy, flowing water, plenty of firewood, and beautiful views. We snagged a little nook along the road just before the official campground. To get there: After you turn onto Forest Rte 32N21, drive a couple miles down until you start seeing thick green shrubs on the right side of the road. This is the creek! There are two pull-offs… the second one cozies right up to the water.

Where I Worked:

McDonalds
3343 Main St
Mammoth Lakes, CA 96013

Ah, McDonalds. Gotta love it… and loathe it at the same time. Here’s the thing about Mickey Dees: It’s loud, and chaotic, and it reeks of greasey potatoes. But it always, always has reliable wifi. This McDonalds was fairly far from the park, but it was the only spot we found that was open all day and provided a solid connection. The WiFi was strong enough that we even managed to stream the World Cup!

JJs Cafe
13385 CA-89
Old Station, CA 96071

I wish we had discovered this joint earlier! JJs is a small cafe located in Old Station, just a few miles from the North entrance to the park. It’s a favorite spot for PCT-hikers, and they were friendly about us having our laptops open and taking our time with breakfast. The only downside is they close at 3pm on Monday and Tuesday. Otherwise, it was my favorite spot!

Where I Hiked:

Brokeoff Mountain
Distance: 6.6 miles
Time: ~4 hours
Elevation gain: 2542 ft

This trail is a fantastic way to Lassen Volcanic National Park! While most people opt for the park’s namesake, Lassen Peak, the ranger we spoke to recommended Brokeoff over Lassen for its spectacular views and diverse landscape. We passed through creeks, wildflowers, meadows, and dense forest. And we were rewarded with a breathtaking view of Lassen Peak at the top. This trail did take us a little longer than expected – give yourself plenty of time and bring lots of water.

We spent our first weekend on the road a little south Shasta Mountain camping with my friends Kasey and Joao. Kasey decided to book a campsite off HipCamp to avoid crowds over the holiday weekend. HipCamp is sort of like an AirBnB for camping… which is a nice idea, but I just can’t justify shelling out $50 for a bit of land and a toilet regularly.

It was a lovely spot though! The campsites were well spread out, and we nabbed a spot right next to a waterfall. There was an awesome swimming hole right by camp we took a dip in before dinner.

Before heading out on Sunday we had a picnic and went for a swim at Whiskeytown Lake. I wish we’d had more time to explore the area; it’s definitely worth returning to.

Next up:  Lassen Volcanic National Park.

What a happy surprise! My friend James flew out from London to join me in the van for a little while. I couldn’t be happier to share the next leg of the trip with another human.

Solo travel is a joy in and of itself, but it feels like the gifts of #vanlife are amplified when you’re sharing them with another person.

First task at hand: had to give the British man is first s’more! It’s a camping rite of passage. This face says everything. 🙂

 

 

Ah, Bishop… the biggest little town in the Eastern Sierras. It has a movie theater, a Von’s, and a DMV, which is saying more than most other towns within a fifty mile radius. Bishop is another major hub for hikers and climbers; it’s a major thoroughfare for the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails. Great spot to restock and spend a little time in the mountains!

Where I camped: 

Buttermilk Road
GPS: 37.328331, -118.579231
Elevation: 6444′
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I was warned this place can get crowded on weekends — the boulders and rock formations are apparently a magnet for climbers. I arrived on a Sunday night and only saw a few other cars! The sites are fairly spread out, and the views — like everywhere else I’ve been in the Eastern Sierra — are absolutely breathtaking. I suggest driving a several miles down the road (it gets pretty bumpy) until you start seeing large trees and bushy green shrubs on the left. There’s a roaring creek deep in a canyon in this area. I love falling asleep next to flowing water 🙂

Pine Creek Road
Bishop, California
GPS: 37.381359, -118.670738
Elevation: 6852′
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I decided to try this site just to change things up one evening. It’s a nice place to camp, but I prefer the sites on Buttermilk Road. Most of the sites are shaded and situated along a roaring creek, but they’re located pretty close together and it was crowded on a Tuesday. If you’ve got a big rig, this location might be easier to access than Buttermilk Road.

Where I worked:

Looney Bean Coffee
399 N Main St
Bishop, CA 93514

A digital nomad’s paradise! Looney Bean is spacious, full of outlets, and you could easily eat breakfast, lunch and dinner here. The waitstaff are exceptionally friendly, and they won’t bat an eye if you park yourself at a booth all day. The only downside is the music they have blaring from the speakers — bad, bad pop electronica. There’s a corner on the North side of the cafe where they’ve turned off the speaker — go there.

Where I hiked:

Bishop Pass Trail
Distance: 9.5 miles round trip
Time: ~4 hours
Elevation gain: 2355 ft

The Bishop Pass Trail is one of the most popular hikes in the Eastern Sierra, and for good reason. The views are spectacular, and you just hit beautiful lake, after beautiful lake, after beautiful lake. I didn’t quite make it to the pass, because I hit a section where about 75 deer had fallen to their death trying to cross a snow bridge. It was straight up ominous, and there was enough blood on the trail I was concerned about meeting scavengers along the way. Instead, I turned back and did the loop to Chocolate Lakes. It’s pretty out there, but the trail is somewhat hard to follow. Make sure you bring a good map!

Pike Creek Trail to Honeymoon Lake
Distance: 11.2 miles round trip
Time: ~5 hours
Elevation gain: 3169 ft

One of the less crowded trailheads in the area, this was one of my favorites. The first section is steep and exposed — absolutely sweltering in early June — but once you get to 10,000ft it’s an easy jaunt to Honeymoon Lake. Because this hike starts at 7,000 feet, it’s much warmer than the other trails in the area. You’ll want to get an early start. But if you’re looking for peace, quiet, and more beautiful lakes, you’ve come to the right spot.

Piute Pass Trail
Distance: 16.7 miles round trip
Time: ~8 hours
Elevation gain: 3454 ft

Finally some shade! Yet another beautiful trek into the Sierras, with plenty of alpine lakes and wildflowers along the way. The trail is mostly shaded, and while the elevation climb is pretty gradual you’re starting at nearly 10,000 feet… so it helps if you’re already acclimatized. I turned back at the third lake so I could get to my car before sunset.

There’s something about the Sierras.

Maybe it’s the way the desert meets the mountains.

Maybe it’s the way that barren, hostile landscape… that world so inhospitable to life… that world of tough, sturdy, spiny creatures that seem to scream, “Don’t touch me!”

Maybe it’s the way that landscape dissolves and becomes the lush, rugged, formidable world of the Sierras.

Golden, rippling sand dunes evolve into shrubby alpine tundra. Icy cold streams slither into parched land and create verdant oases of thick grasses, pastel flowers, and pine forests.

Roaring waterfalls – surging with water from the harsh winter of preceding days – pour over cliffs into alpine lakes. The lakes, teeming with fish and algae, seem to sparkle indigo, emerald, and turquoise in the sunlight.

But it’s the mountains themselves that make this slice of earth remarkable. They rise out of the earth craggy and raw, cutting a jagged gash across the skyline. They hold fast to the icy tendrils of winter well into summer, slowly drenching the valley below with snowmelt.

The mountains rein here. They create the weather. They channel the winds, spark freak thunderstorms, supercool vapor in to thick, billowy clouds. It’s here, in the shadow of the Sierras, that Spring can give birth to new life.

These mountains create such a magnificent screen for the light. At dawn, they illuminate with crimson, pink and yellow. At dusk, they fade into deep shades of maroon and purple.

It feels like this wild, transitional space where death slowly makes its way to life. It’s pretty special.

 

Where I camped: 

Movie Road in the Alabama Hills
GPS: 36.627712, -118.126411
Elevation: 4789′
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The Alabama Hills are my favorite place to camp in all of California. Picture a majestic, other-worldly expanse of massive granite boulders nestled right at the foot of the Sierra mountains. The sites are fairly spread out, so you’re not camping right on top of your neighbor. Glorious views of Mount Whitney, the tallest peak in the lower forty-eight.

Tip: Rise and shine by sunrise to see the Sierras light up in orange, red, and purple hues.

Where I worked:

McDonalds
601 S Main St
Lone Pine, CA 93545

If you can tolerate the screaming children and high pitched BEEP!!s from the coffee machines (headphones were a saving grace), this was a great place to work. Free, high-speed wi-fi and plenty of seating with power outlets. In late Spring and early Summer, this joint is packed to the brim with PCT hikers.

Alabama Hills Cafe
111 W Post St,
Lone Pine, CA 93545

I looooooove this place! Strong wifi, outlets by a few tables, and it’s right next door to the laundromat – so I could do laundry while I worked. The only downside is that the restaurant is mighty small, and one of the waitresses had to kick me out during the lunch rush to make room for other customers. Otherwise I would have spent all day everyday here!

Where I hiked:

Tuttle Creek Ashram
Distance: 3.5 miles round trip
Time: ~2 hours
Elevation gain: 1432 ft

This hike leads to a beautiful, albeit slightly eerie abandoned stone building that served as a spiritual respite for theosophists in the 1930s. Tucked away in a glacier-carved canyon, the ashram is situated just above a small waterfall and overlooks the Owens Valley and Inyo Mountains. You’ll gain a fair amount of elevation in the first mile, but it’s well worth it. Beautiful desert flowers along the way.

Tip: Park on the dirt road about a mile before the trailhead if you don’t have four-wheel drive.

Kearsarge Pass Trail
Distance: 11 miles round trip
Time: ~5 hours
Elevation gain: 3474ft

What. A. Hike. Photos just don’t do it justice. Sweeping views of the Sierra Crest and pristine lakes in all directions. The trail weaves through alpine tundra, forests of pine, slopes covered in manzanita, and boulder fields.  It’s an entry / exit port for many a PCT and JMT hikers, so you’ll likely get asked for a ride back down to the highway. They’re a friendly, albeit smelly bunch. 😉